Don't beat yourself up if you've never heard of it. Our London landlords Bernard & Michael, who rent a room in their beautiful canal side flat (with a delicious breakfast - Michael makes the best scones in Britain), know the town from 'A through Z' & hadn't heard of it either.
Basically, the 'Ceremony' is the official locking of the gates of the Tower by the Chief Yeoman Warder ('Beefeater' to you & me). It includes armed guards, ceremonial marching, drawn weapons, the 'Queen's keys', verbal challenges, a bugle solo & a chance to see a part of the Tower of London at night & without the crowds.
It is 100% enjoyable & is a much better show than the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace.
And it's quick. It takes just slightly more than a half hour from when you enter the gate to when you're back on the outside cobblestones.
The best part - it's free (sort of, I'll explain later). But you do have to do a little bit of work to snag a ticket:
You must apply in writing (a phone call nor email doesn't make it) & include:
- Names of all attendees
- Two possible dates you can attend for at least two months in advance (three months in advance if you wish to attend in June, July and August)
- A self-addressed envelope together with the requisite British postage stamps, or a minimum of two 'Coupon-response international'. Please note that American or other non-British stamps are not valid in the UK.
Please post applications to: Ceremony of the Keys Office Tower of London LONDON, EC3N 4AB Great Britain Tel: +44 (0)20 3166 6278 International Reply Coupons are readily available. For American visitors, please seewww.usps.com for details.
Please bring the original ticket issued by the Tower of London. Visitors will be admitted to the Tower under escort at 21:30 hrs (9:30pm) precisely.
The above 'how to apply' suggestions were copied directly from the Tower's official website & should be followed to the letter.
I do have some suggestions:
-include as many possible attendance dates. We listed 9 dates and got OUR LAST ONE. The tours are small & do fill up very quickly.
-don't expect to walk through the gate before 9:30. The beefeater at the gate will watch the waiting crowd with a bemused look but - no matter what - he won't open the gate a nano second before.
- don't be late. They really won't let you in.
- do pee before you enter. There are no WC stops inside.
- after your ticket & bags are checked, you will be told to 'wait under the arch'. That's where you should stay. A few ticket holders ventured onto the bridge & we're verbally chastised.
- expect your Beefeater guide to tell you humorous tales, but don't be surprised if the butt of some of these gentle jokes are Americans. Laugh & the world will laugh with you.
- BEEN THERE HINT: when you walk inside and you stop in front of the 'Traitor's Gate', try to be as close to the center of the gate opposite it as possible. Soldiers silently march down the stairs on the inside of the gate & stand there (I must admit, it's a bit of an unnerving sight). If you aren't near the center to look though, you won't be able to see them & miss out of some of the fun.
- your Beefeater guide will advise men who are wearing hats to doff them when the Queen's Keys go by. Some didn't & none were drawn & quartered.
- your Beefeater guide will also advise you not to talk nor take pictures during the ceremony. Listen to that advice after all, remember what happened to Anne Boleyn just a few steps from you.
- your Beefeater guide will also tell you that the soldiers footwear make the cobblestones slippery. Believe them & hope that every gun has a safety. A soldier's 'Halt, who goes there' was punctuated by a slight slip on my night. I've talked to people who've seen soldiers hit the ground. Why they don't issue rubber soles is a mystery.
- when your Beefeater guide tells you to move quickly following the soldiers when they enter the gate - do move quickly.
Following these suggestions will make your participation in this very British historic event a success.
Oh yes, the 'sort of free' comment. There is no official fee for enjoying the Ceremony of the Keys, but there is a suggestion for a 'five pound donation'.
Our Beefeater guide made his own 'suggestion' about this donation, 'You'd be better off spending it at a pub for a pint.'
We did & he was right.
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